- Travel Sensei
Conquering North Sikkim: A Journey Through Majestic Landscapes and High Altitudes
Discover the majestic beauty of North Sikkim while navigating through its stunning landscapes and overcoming logistical challenges. From obtaining permits to braving low oxygen levels, embark on an immersive Himalayan adventure filled with breathtaking sights and practical insights for a successful trip
If you know about Indian geography or have searched for Sikkim on Google Maps, you might think, "Oh, Sikkim! It's a very small state with only a few places to visit or limited things to see." Well, you are far from reality. Sikkim looks small, just like Goa, but it has unmissable natural beauty at every turn of the road. When we were traveling by taxi, we would always reach our destination with a delay, simply because of the numerous stops we took to enjoy the road, the view, the waterfalls, and more. With that thought in mind, let's start our trip to North Sikkim.
If you are a trekker planning your trip solely for trekking, this blog may not be as helpful for you. However, if you are interested in traveling like a regular tourist, you are more than welcome to join us.
North Sikkim primarily has two distinct areas – Lachen (Big Pass) and Lachung (Small Pass). Both locations share a common road from Gangtok to Chungthang, where the road splits into two directions. One way leads to Lachen, where you can visit landmarks like Thangu Valley, Chopta Valley (Kala Pather), and Gurudongmar Lake. On the other side, the road to Lachung leads to Yumthang Valley and Zero Point.
Taking Permission
If you are traveling from Gangtok, the first thing you need is a permit. If you are relying on taxis for traveling (as we did), you can ask your tour operator or taxi service to obtain the permit for you. You will need to provide official documents. For foreign travelers, there are restrictions on certain areas that you cannot visit. You can check the details required for permits and the places you can visit through the Sikkim tourism link:
If you plan to travel with your own vehicle, whether a two-wheeler or a four-wheeler, you can do so. You will need to apply for a permit at Gangtok or Mangan. Details for vehicle permits are also provided in the link above. You can visit the office directly to get the permit or seek support from authorized tour operators. However, keep in mind that tour operators often discourage personal vehicles and may either discourage you or outright decline your request. Expect some struggle to obtain a permit for your vehicle, so please plan accordingly and allow some buffer time for this process.
For taxi-driven tourism, you can find details online or check directly with tour operator offices on MG Road in Gangtok. Try to cut out middlemen if you are booking through your own state's tour operators. It is always better to book directly with someone in Gangtok. Trust us, we suffered due to intermediaries, and avoiding inconvenience is always a priority.
With the permits in place, let's start our tour of North Sikkim, beginning with Lachen.
Day 1:
When you think of mountains, what’s the first image that comes to mind? For most people, it’s snow-laden peaks with a hint of brown. Then, you imagine mountains covered with green trees, making the mountains appear green from afar. As with any mountain city, you go up and down, cross bridges, and navigate hairpin bends. When you leave Gangtok, the mountains are a peaceful green with clouds almost right above your head. As you progress, you are greeted by Buddhist flags, mostly white with some colorful strips that run for meters. You can visit multiple monasteries along the way. Another standout feature is the number of waterfalls. I'm not talking about small streams running down mountain curves, but amazing waterfalls like Naga Falls, which is right by the road and often clogs traffic for this reason. Throughout the journey, you'll enjoy the views and the road. For the most part, the road is good, allowing for long, meaningful conversations with your travel companions.
In 90% of cases, you will reach your destination in darkness as the sun would have already set. Due to the tiring journey, the best course of action is to relax and acclimatize. Most hotels are basic and offer meals as part of the package. You’ll have dinner on the first day, with breakfast and lunch provided the next day. As temperatures dip, it’s best to relax and avoid exertion, even if you’re full of youthful energy. Know your limits, and don’t test them here. Lachen is not the place for that.
The next day will be more hectic and involve more travel. Things will change dramatically.
Day 2:
The day begins very early, as days are short in hilly areas, and you need to leave early. Generally, Day 2 ends in Lachung, but it depends on how you want to explore. As you leave Lachen early, you move towards a beauty that transcends from Earth to an unbelievable realm.
The first stop will be the Army checkpoint for permit validation, which is also the world's highest Dosa selling point. This place gets very crowded, as every vehicle has to stop here for a permit check. Therefore, every tourist pours into the restaurant like torrential rain. The same happens with the restrooms, so be prepared, as they can get quite messy. After this point, most of the restrooms are makeshift and few, so be ready for the rest of the journey.
You may have to wait for some time before getting your permits approved. As you progress, there's a small detour to Kala Pathar (Thangu Valley). The route, the views, the curves—everything is just amazing. If you love snow, you can enjoy some here, though it's not like the snow in Gulmarg or Sonmarg. Don’t expect too much from this place; it's more like a pass (similar to Chang La or Nathu La), and you will turn back rather than continue ahead.
After leaving Kala Pathar, get ready for the ultimate test and destination. Once back from the detour, the road conditions will dramatically worsen (at least, that was the case when we visited). For a long duration, you’ll be on stone roads, which can be quite uncomfortable. Besides the road, the environment will start testing you. The winds will get stronger, and the oxygen levels will drop. Amid this chaos, the landscape will change. You'll be in a valley covered with nature's paintings all around you. As you move in a circle, you'll be surrounded by the Himalayas, feeling as if they have welcomed you into their lap. You will be driving on a single road with flatlands extending for kilometers, and far-off snow-laden mountains will sometimes run parallel to the road and sometimes stand around the corner as you travel on winding roads. We took many stops to sit, relax, and use our Bluetooth speaker to add extra spice. You won’t believe how Mohit Chauhan’s voice in the backdrop of mountains at full volume can do wonders for your mood and thoughts.
You’ll realize you're nearing Gurudongmar Lake when you start traveling on a dirt road and observe taxis coming back. The taxi stop at the lake is on top of a small hill with a temple by the lake. As you step outside, you’ll notice that one-third of the lake is not frozen, but the rest is, with sunrays reflecting off the water surface and gusty winds complementing each other. You’ll see hundreds of stacked stones adding a human touch to nature. As you spend more time by the lake, it settles into your mind and heart. You’ll start smiling, feeling happy and content. You might even start thinking that the only thing you need is a coffee or tea to make everything perfect (there is no food served around the lake).
You can walk down from the hilltop to the lake shores (only if you have oxygen cylinders or are exceptionally fit) and take a walk around the lake. By the way, it is one of the highest lakes in the world at a height of ~5400m. The lake holds a lot of sentimental and religious value, so please be respectful and avoid leaving garbage behind. Carry it back with you.
After spending as much time as you desire, you can start your return journey. When you reach back at your hotel, you will be served lunch, and then you can head to Lachung, aiming to arrive around sunset. Between Chungthang and Lachung, you can stop at Bhim Nala Waterfalls, or you can do it on your way back. The waterfall is next to the roadside, so it’s unmissable.
Lachung is also a very small town, but on this side of the Himalayas, the weather won't play tricks on you, so you can relax. After a relaxing night, you’ll leave for two amazing stops—Zero Point and Yumthang Valley. Another feature of Lachung is the hordes of yaks. You might not have seen so many yaks together before.
Day 3:
Early in the morning, as you set off on your tour, you will find yourself back in the lush greenery. The first stop is Yumthang Valley, a small yet beautiful valley nestled in the peaky mountains. There are some shops at the start where you can grab food and do some souvenir shopping. The valley is amazing and green, and at this time of year, fresh flowers start blossoming, adding a touch of happiness. Throughout your trip, you’ll notice clouds lingering between the mountains, resembling a friendly “cloud basketball” game. The roads are pretty good, making it one of the best road trips in India. As you proceed from Yumthang Valley towards Zero Point, food places become scarce, so plan your meals accordingly.
Zero Point is another valley, but it has a stream running through it, and you can experience snow here (the snow volume depends on the climate). We encountered patchy snow, the last remnants of it. Here, you can walk up the snow-covered mountains to some extent and even roll in the snow just for the feel of it. You can spend as much time here as you want.
Another thing you can do is stop at one of the small lakes visible from the road between the two locations. Exploring one of these lakes is a decision you won’t regret. It’s the joy of little things that makes a trip extra memorable.
A fun fact: Zero Point got its name because there are no roads beyond this point, and general citizens are not allowed to travel further.
Before you leave the page, here are some crucial facts and observations to help you prepare better for your trip to North Sikkim:
Important Tips for Your Trip to North Sikkim
Distance and Travel Time:
Hotels in Lachen are approximately 130-140 km from Gangtok, which ideally translates to a 4-5 hour drive, but various factors can extend this time:
Tour Operator Dependence: The punctuality of tour operators can vary greatly. Be prepared for potential delays.
Permit Issues: Tour operators often apply for permits on the day of travel. If there are delays in obtaining permits, it can impact your schedule.
Weather Conditions: Always check with your tour operator regarding weather conditions to avoid unforeseen disruptions. Have a backup plan ready.
Scenic Stops: The beautiful views and numerous waterfalls, like Naga Falls, will tempt you to stop frequently, extending your travel time.
Clothing and Climate Preparation:
Temperature: North Sikkim temperatures generally range between 4-18°C. Locations like Gurudongmar Lake, deep in the Himalayas, can approach 0°C. Pack accordingly with winter jackets, thermal wear, and warm socks.
Mobile Network and Wi-Fi:
Connectivity: Both Lachen and Lachung are remote border areas with limited network coverage. Expect your mobile to function primarily as a camera. Basic Wi-Fi may be available, but don’t rely on it for consistent connectivity.
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Snowshoe Rentals:
Caution: At snow-covered locations like Kala Pathar and Zero Point, locals rent out snowshoes. Check the snow levels first to ensure you get value for your money.
Altitude and Oxygen Levels:
Apart from low temperatures, you must be prepared for low oxygen levels. If you're traveling with seniors or if you are a senior yourself, consider their health conditions before deciding to visit Lachen and Gurudongmar Lake (Lachung is more manageable)
Essential Items:
Portable Oxygen Cylinder: Even if you are in good health, carrying a portable oxygen cylinder is advisable. It can help you extend your stay at high-altitude spots like Gurudongmar Lake and manage sudden breathlessness.
Ginger and Popcorn: Carry ginger and popcorn (avoid Act II popcorn and prefer local) to help keep you warm and manage dizziness and nausea. Ginger has warming properties, and popcorn is a good snack to maintain energy levels.
Personal Experiences: It’s not uncommon for travelers to face health issues due to the high altitude. We encountered a couple who had to turn back mid-journey because one of them felt unwell. Another couple we picked up faced severe discomfort and couldn’t leave their taxi upon reaching the lake. It's crucial to recognize your limits and prioritize your health. Even I could only manage 30 minutes at Gurudongmar Lake before feeling the effects, while my companion comfortably took photos and videos.
Final Thoughts
We hope we have convinced you that North Sikkim is a destination worth visiting despite the challenges. With proper preparation, you can mitigate the risks and enjoy the breathtaking beauty of the region. Join us next time as we explore the lesser-known gems of West Sikkim! Adios and remember, Travel, Mi Amor!
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