Exploring East Sikkim: Nathu La Pass, Baba Harbajan Singh Temple & Tsongmo Lake Adventure
Discover the wonders of East Sikkim with a visit to Nathu La Pass, Tsongmo Lake, and the patriotic Baba Harbajan Singh Temple.
We’ve explored the hidden jewels of North Sikkim, and now it’s time to circle back to Gangtok—the tourist capital and East Sikkim and a city that will surprise you in more ways than one. For me, Gangtok stands out for its respect for traffic rules, and trust me, this is worth mentioning. Imagine a hill station where drivers don’t cut lines, honking is minimal, and there’s a sense of patience even in rush hour. It’s a stark contrast to the chaos you often see elsewhere and made navigating Gangtok’s narrow roads a surprisingly pleasant experience.
This sense of order feels like a breath of fresh air, especially for city dwellers who are used to dodging traffic jams like they’re part of a video game. It’s funny how something as simple as disciplined traffic can leave such a lasting impression, but Gangtok manages to do just that. A hill station that teaches driving etiquette? Now that’s something to write home about!
Exploring Gangtok: Heart of the City and Beyond
Gangtok is a city that invites you to start right at its heart—MG Road. This pedestrian-friendly stretch is more than just a marketplace; it’s where the pulse of the city truly beats. After a day of traveling or sightseeing, MG Road offers the perfect spot to unwind. Sure, commercialization has made its mark here, but the charm of local flavors still lingers in the air. Stalls selling momos, prayer flags swaying gently in the breeze, and the chatter of fellow travelers make it an experience you don’t want to miss.
At one end of MG Road lies a ropeway that takes you to Namnang View Point. The ride promises scenic views of Gangtok’s rolling hills and the city below. Unfortunately, we couldn’t catch it due to timing issues (lesson learned: check the operating hours), but if you do, it’s a great way to see Gangtok from a different perspective.
When it comes to sightseeing within Gangtok, you’ll find an array of spiritual spots. From the serene Enchey Monastery to the Hanuman and Ganesh Tok temples perched on hilltops, there’s something peaceful about each location. You can customize your day by hiring a local cab and picking which spots to explore—it’s efficient and allows you to cover multiple places at your own pace.
But while Gangtok has its gems, you don’t need more than two days to see the main attractions within the city. This leaves plenty of time to venture beyond and explore what the surrounding region has to offer.
Outside Gangtok: Adventures Await
If you arrived in Gangtok by road, you might have noticed river rafting on the Teesta River about an hour before reaching the city. For adrenaline junkies, this is a fantastic experience—especially if you haven’t tried rafting in Rishikesh before. The gushing waters and the thrill of navigating the rapids make it an adventure worth repeating.
Planning to chase waterfalls? While Gangtok has a few, like Bakthang Waterfall, it’s worth skipping these if you’re also visiting North Sikkim. Why? Because the waterfalls in North Sikkim, especially during monsoon, are a class apart. However, if North Sikkim isn’t part of your itinerary, then these closer falls offer a quick and refreshing escape into nature. Just remember, if you’re seeking the majestic Seven Sisters Waterfall, that one is best experienced in Meghalaya, not here.
The Journey Beyond Gangtok: Nathu La Pass and Tsongmo Lake
After soaking in the sights and sounds of Gangtok, it was time to explore the marvels that lie beyond the city limits. The next stop on our itinerary was the much-talked-about Nathu La Pass, a destination that had been on our minds ever since we started planning this trip. The anticipation grew as we left Gangtok early in the morning, with the winding roads and crisp mountain air setting the tone for the day.
Driving up to Nathu La is an experience in itself. The route, flanked by rugged terrain and panoramic views of the Himalayas, has a way of making you forget about the twists and turns. As we climbed higher, the air got thinner and colder, but the excitement only grew. When we finally reached the pass, the sight before us was nothing short of surreal.
Standing at over 14,000 feet, Nathu La Pass is not just a border between India and China—it’s a living slice of history. The narrow road, connecting two nations, feels like a thread stitching together stories of trade, diplomacy, and resilience. On one side, you see the Indian border bustling with tourists, flags fluttering in the wind, and soldiers proudly narrating the significance of this place. On the other side, the Chinese border stands stark and silent, with only a few defense personnel visible.
We even indulged in a bit of innocent fun—watching fellow tourists try to grab the attention of Chinese soldiers on the opposite side. “Bhaiya, bhaiya!” someone shouted, while another group tried to communicate through exaggerated waves. It’s fascinating how such moments of humor emerge in the most unlikely places.
A Midway Stop: Tsongmo Lake
On our way to Nathu La, we made a stop at the stunning Tsongmo Lake, or Changgu Lake as it’s locally known. If I had to describe it in one word, it would be “magical.” Imagine a pristine glacial lake surrounded by snow-capped peaks, with the sky above adding its shades to the water. That’s Tsongmo Lake for you—a postcard brought to life.
The lake isn’t just a visual treat; it’s also an experience. You can take a short stroll around its shores, marvel at the reflections of the mountains, or simply soak in the quiet. For the adventurous, there are yak rides available. I must admit, the sight of yaks dressed in colorful accessories did tempt us to take some pictures, and we couldn’t resist a quick photo op with one of these gentle giants.
If Nathu La isn’t part of your plan due to weather restrictions, Tsongmo Lake easily steals the show as the highlight of East Sikkim. It’s the kind of place where you lose track of time, caught between the serenity of the surroundings and the sheer joy of being in the moment.
Wrapping Up East Sikkim: The Soul-Stirring Baba Harbajan Singh Memorial
As we descended from Nathu La Pass, one more stop awaited us—a place that perfectly blends patriotism, spirituality, and awe-inspiring views. The Baba Harbajan Singh Memorial Temple, dedicated to the memory of Harbajan Singh, an Indian soldier who sacrificed his life near the pass, is not just a detour—it’s an experience in itself.
The temple, perched amidst the towering mountains, radiates a distinct sense of pride and solemnity. As soon as we parked, the aura of the place felt patriotic, almost palpable. Flags fluttered in the crisp mountain air, and the stories of bravery attached to this location made it even more meaningful. The effort put into maintaining the temple and the surrounding facilities is commendable. From clean public conveniences to small food outlets offering warm tea and snacks, it’s the perfect spot to pause and reflect.
Take your time to explore and read about the fascinating history of Baba Harbajan Singh, a soldier believed to continue guarding the region even after his demise. It’s a story that leaves you with goosebumps and a deep sense of respect.
But don’t stop there! Just behind the temple, a short walk of 15–20 minutes will lead you to an extraordinary white Shiva statue, standing tall amidst the mountains. The walk itself is serene, with some steps along the way, and the statue’s sheer presence is mesmerizing. Standing beneath it, the tranquility and positivity flowing through the place make it hard to leave. It’s the kind of spot where time seems to pause, and all you want to do is soak in the divine energy.
Practical Tips for Nathu La and Beyond
Covering Nathu La Pass and its surrounding attractions is undoubtedly one of the highlights of East Sikkim, but it comes with its challenges. The weather can be unpredictable, and access to the pass depends on permits issued by the local authorities. Limited passes are available, and they’re often issued only when the weather is favorable.
For convenience, it’s best to arrange your Nathu La visit once you arrive in Gangtok. MG Road has several taxi service providers who can help you with the permits and packages. Compare a few operators before finalizing, as some have gone digital and are easy to find via Google Maps.
If you’re planning to drive a personal car, be prepared for some bureaucracy. Permits for private vehicles are difficult to obtain, and the process may require you to extend your stay. Getting in touch with a travel agent or consulting the official Sikkim Tourism website (sikkimtourism.gov.in) can help, but it’s often easier and quicker to rely on local taxi operators.
Also keep in mind that phones are strictly prohibited inside the bordering structures of Nathu La for security reasons. There are no locker facilities provided, so it’s crucial not to take your phone out. If caught, it might be confiscated temporarily, photos deleted, and the process could lead to unnecessary delays. Moreover, following these guidelines is not just a matter of convenience but also a civic and moral duty, given the sensitivity of the area.
What’s Next?
And with that, we wrap up our journey through East Sikkim, filled with breathtaking mountain passes, serene lakes, and stories that touch your heart. But don’t go too far—this is just the beginning of what Sikkim has to offer.
Up next, we’ll take you to the mystical landscapes of West Sikkim, uncovering hidden gems like Revang La and more. If you thought East Sikkim was an adventure, wait until you see what the western region holds. From cascading waterfalls to peaceful monasteries, the journey only gets better.
Stay tuned for the next part of our Sikkim series—it’s going to be unforgettable!
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